Grades aren't all the routes just HVS anyway?

One of the problems with any climbing guidebook is making sure the grades are consistent and represent local consensus. Not easy with something so subjective, especially when holds break and some of the routes have only had a handful of ascents. So in this post I'll air views on some of the routes in the hope it might generate a little feedback. If there are any grades in the previous edition of the guide that you think to be well off the mark please leave a comment.

First for discussion is Agent Provocateur, which was thought to be F7a+ but the left-hand side-pull crimp on the crux has recently broken. It's now a bit harder so possibly worth F7b given the move was stiff anyway?

Psychokiller has recently been redpointed by Andy Steinberg who thinks F7c is nearer the mark than F7c+. Martin Crocker who made an early repeat (likely the second ascent?) in 1993 also thinks 7c+ to be an overestimate, while Tom Rainbow has it down as 'soft' at the grade. Looks like the quarry's hardest is due a down-grade.

Other sport routes which are being re-assessed are: West Point F6b (was F6b+) and Warrior soft F6c (was F6c+) while the grades of Friend or Foe? F7a+ and Sling Shot F7b are likely to remain as they are.

Hell’s Tooth at Helman Tor is to be changed from E2 5c to E1 5b, while also due a grade re-assessment is The Lord Falmouth at Roche Rock. E1 5b/c is clearly an overestimate but is HVS 5a a little too stiff? This may be a route that is always a tricky one to get right.

So what are everyone's thoughts on these and any other routes? Please leave your comments and suggestions...

Cheesewring Quarry covered in new selected climbs guidebook

In July Rockfax published West Country Climbs, written by Devon-born Mark Glaister, a selective guide to the climbing in Avon, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset and Somerset. Just over 30 routes from the South East Cornwall area are included in the book which has some coverage of Cheesewring Quarry, Roche Rock and Devil’s Jump. See the Rockfax database for a full list of the routes covered.

It is nice to see Cheesewring Quarry given the same treatment as so many of the South West's other top venues. Mark has done an excellent job and the book is very well produced. With the definitive guide currently unavailable West Country Climbs will no doubt prove useful for anyone looking for some information on the climbing in the area.

Work is progressing on the new edition of the definitive guide to Cheesewring & South East Cornwall, which is currently still in the writing/research stage. Please note: no announcements of a publication date for this will be made until nearer the time.

'Legend has it…'

The process of crag visits and historical research continues. Sean Hawken has been showing me around the Bodmin Moor Tors so that we can include as much of the bouldering as is practical. Both Sean and myself are hoping to avoid vague comments – like 'routes have been climbed here' or 'the bouldering remains unrecorded for those with the enterprise to rediscover' – by including as much as possible. So expect the new edition to have more bouldering and full details of Romanis and Jerram's routes on the South Coast.

I'm also getting more information about a place where 'legend has it' there is some climbing which has escaped proper documentation in the last two guides. If you've put up any new routes in the area please get in touch.

Ticking Along

Things are still ticking along with the update although as I'm having to do most of the crag visits, route checking, etc. in my own time it will take a while before I can give any firm dates as to when the new edition will be ready for printing.

Also, my apologies to anyone who's emailed me and been waiting for a reply. I've been busy covering a colleague's holiday leave but normally I try to respond promptly. There is still a bit of time to get all those projects done – better get them in quick though!

Unknown First Ascent Details for Kilmar Tor New Route

The Kilmar Tor section on Javu's new routes page has a description of a line with a suggested name of 'Septic Reality'. But there are no first ascent details and the quote containing the description is unattributed.

Dave Henderson can't remember who sent him this; I've asked a few other people but no one seems to know who might have climbed it.

If anyone has any further info on this route – first ascent date/names of the first ascent party – please leave a comment or get in touch.

The full entry on Javu reads...
"We climbed a line on Kilmar Tor that is not recorded in any of the guides we have seen, it follows a roof crack out of a cave 100m along the ridge towards the car from Special Llama, climb up the back of the cave, follow the roof crack out to daylight along a mossy ledge until mossy jams on the lip allow you to stand on the arete, then climb the top slopey section, graded about HS 5a but will get easier as the jams get less mossy, we reckon if nobody else has claimed it Septic Reality would be a good name. the arete below the finish goes as well at about s 4b with the same scary topout."

A Reminder

Progress on the research for the second edition slowed a little over the Christmas and New Year period as my other work commitments took priority. However, I’ve still been receiving lots of valuable information regarding new routes and current access issues in particular. Thanks to everyone who has been in contact. I’d also like to remind those with outstanding route descriptions to send them in.

Things are certainly back on track now as I’ve been visiting a number of the crags recently. I’ll be adding further guide related posts soon and hopefully getting round to updating this site.