Grades aren't all the routes just HVS anyway?

One of the problems with any climbing guidebook is making sure the grades are consistent and represent local consensus. Not easy with something so subjective, especially when holds break and some of the routes have only had a handful of ascents. So in this post I'll air views on some of the routes in the hope it might generate a little feedback. If there are any grades in the previous edition of the guide that you think to be well off the mark please leave a comment.

First for discussion is Agent Provocateur, which was thought to be F7a+ but the left-hand side-pull crimp on the crux has recently broken. It's now a bit harder so possibly worth F7b given the move was stiff anyway?

Psychokiller has recently been redpointed by Andy Steinberg who thinks F7c is nearer the mark than F7c+. Martin Crocker who made an early repeat (likely the second ascent?) in 1993 also thinks 7c+ to be an overestimate, while Tom Rainbow has it down as 'soft' at the grade. Looks like the quarry's hardest is due a down-grade.

Other sport routes which are being re-assessed are: West Point F6b (was F6b+) and Warrior soft F6c (was F6c+) while the grades of Friend or Foe? F7a+ and Sling Shot F7b are likely to remain as they are.

Hell’s Tooth at Helman Tor is to be changed from E2 5c to E1 5b, while also due a grade re-assessment is The Lord Falmouth at Roche Rock. E1 5b/c is clearly an overestimate but is HVS 5a a little too stiff? This may be a route that is always a tricky one to get right.

So what are everyone's thoughts on these and any other routes? Please leave your comments and suggestions...

Cheesewring Quarry covered in new selected climbs guidebook

In July Rockfax published West Country Climbs, written by Devon-born Mark Glaister, a selective guide to the climbing in Avon, Cornwall, Devon, Dorset and Somerset. Just over 30 routes from the South East Cornwall area are included in the book which has some coverage of Cheesewring Quarry, Roche Rock and Devil’s Jump. See the Rockfax database for a full list of the routes covered.

It is nice to see Cheesewring Quarry given the same treatment as so many of the South West's other top venues. Mark has done an excellent job and the book is very well produced. With the definitive guide currently unavailable West Country Climbs will no doubt prove useful for anyone looking for some information on the climbing in the area.

Work is progressing on the new edition of the definitive guide to Cheesewring & South East Cornwall, which is currently still in the writing/research stage. Please note: no announcements of a publication date for this will be made until nearer the time.