Cheesewring & South East Cornwall, a climbers’ guide by Sean Hawken, is now out of print and has been since earlier this year. A second edition is now in preparation. The publishers of the guidebook have set up a website http://www.stivesnews.co.uk/CheesewringClimbing/index.html in order to provide a point of contact to send in your new route descriptions, news of repeats and grade feedback to be included in the update.
Through this website we also hope to publish online, archive material relating to the history of climbing in the area. In addition this news blog will be used to keep anyone who might be interested updated on the progress of the second edition of the Cheesewring & South East Cornwall guide.
Just climbed central corner on the southern outcrop in cheeswrings. might be handy for others to know that the peg is bent up and doesn't appear to take a solid-gate krab. A smaller wire gate still fits though the hole of the peg.
ReplyDeleteThanks for this. The peg on Central Corner is pretty old now but there is plenty of better protection around with small wires and cams as an alternative to the fixed gear.
ReplyDeleteI’m omitting any mention of this peg in the guide’s second edition so that people don’t expect it to be there. Perhaps it’s time it was removed?…
Suppose the peg is better than fresh air, but if you don't mention it and its still there it may cause confusion. Also as the peg is pretty bent up I would suggest it has not only done its job but also stopped a few people hitting the deck. I am not sure but think that some fat-fingered people like myself would also struggle to place a cam (that is not a fancy alien type cam or similar) without losing a finger hold or two. Maybe I will go and have a look-see at some point.
ReplyDeleteI also had a look at Nocturne last night but backed off due to things becoming damp and slippery and catching my rope in the blackberry bush that is presently residing at the foot of the route. The blackberry bush I imagine will meet with a timely demise at the end of the fruiting season (some nice berries there presently) but I also could not account for peg although similarly I imagine some small wires and cams can be used in the crack instead. Will check again at some point when its not starting to rain. Could be some time I suppose :-)
Nocturne’s peg is long gone. It has had a few ascents recently and the general feeling is it’s a well protected as it is (one of the best protected routes of its grade in the Quarry). It is also very good so I’m sure you’ll enjoy it.
ReplyDeleteI started a thread on the South West Climbing Wiki to get some wider opinions on what should be done with the older pegs. You might find useful info as to the current state of the fixed gear on the Wiki too.
Read the discussion here…
http://southwestclimbing.wetpaint.com/thread/3329514/Fixed+Gear+in+Cheesewring+Quarry
Responding to the fixed gear discussion. With regards to the peg on central corner I feel its time to remove it. There are good natural protection opportunities to protect this lower difficult section. I have also witnessed on more than one occasion people jumping on the route,clipping the peg, getting pumped and not placing any other gear then falling off. So far the peg has held but I think its an accident waiting to happen. I believe it would be a safer route without it.
ReplyDelete