Heaps of adventure and delightful coffee on the South Coast

The last weekend of June was a busy one for new routes on the South Coast. First up an experienced team of South West pioneers descended on Nare Head to climb a three pitch ridge-line which had been on Pat Littlejohn's 'to do list' for quite sometime. For this adventure Pat assembled a crack team of veteran climbers which included Dave Garner, Dave Hope and Des Hannigan. The resultant rock climb, named Finger Ridge (pictured above), turned out to be 200 feet of VS fun. Des Hannigan commented on the route's greatest attributes: "The coffee at Nare Hotel was a delight," he said. I dare not hazard a guess at the combined age of the route's first ascent party!

The following day just along the coast at Dodman Point, the slightly more youthful pair of Tom Bunn and Alex Orr put up a clean aid route that sounds truly terrifying. The Pioneer takes a crackline up the overhanging wall between The Jolly Farmer and Horrorshow and was climbed without recourse, of course, to hammered or drilled protection.

Unbeknownst to Tom and Alex the Littlejohn and Garner team responsible for The Jolly Farmer were just a few hundred metres away on the Prince Heathen Cliff adding more climbs to their Dodman stomping ground. A VS named Pretender, and two E2s called Quartzophenia (pictured below) and Handsome Prince were the result of a good day's work for the greatest devotees of Dodman's adventure climbing. According to Pat: "We had a great day at last finding some solid rock to climb on Dodman!"

Full descriptions of all these routes and more photos can be found on the New Routes page of the Cheesewring Climbing Website. I'd be grateful to anyone with information on new routes or other climbing news in South East Cornwall if they could get in touch to let us know. Finally many thanks to Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner, Dave Hope, Des Hannigan and Tom Bunn for providing details of these new routes and permission to use the first ascent photos.